Algonquin Park: Camping Trip Logs: 011 - Meanest Link Part One

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Day 12

July 21, 2011 - Cedar Lake to Crow River

The Coffee Refrain was heard early today, 6 AM. By the time I was awake enough to crawl out of my hammock John and Mark had already taken down and packed up their tent. I could tell the plan was to travel some distance today! Oatmeal with brown sugar and dehydrated blueberries was soon eaten and with a grey clouded sky and a brisk west wind we got underway. Cedar Lake was more like her usual self and we had to battle the waves and wind, striking out into the west wind before we could make the turn safely and head for the outflow of the Petawawa River.

Wind and waves from the west.

Cedar Lake to Petawawa River.

Stiff onshore breeze.

Single carrying, as we had since the beginning of the trip, we were soon across the 960m first portage. Putting in on the river it was like a different day, sunshine breaking through and lighting up the river valley.

Petawawa River. What a differance a portage makes.

It was an easy paddle and portage to get to the old railroad bridge that crosses the Petawawa River. The bridge is rather impressive, even in its decommissioned state. I can just imagine looking out the window of the train as it crossed this bridge high over the river.

Petawawa River to Petawawa River.

Jim with the canoe.

Rocky section of the Petawawa River.

Railroad bridge over the Petawawa River.

It is however quite a climb to get up to the portage which follows the railway bed. Once the canoes were hauled up we checked out the bridge and took some photos of the vistas it offers.

Petawawa River to Petawawa River.

Steep climb to get to the rail bed.

View upstream from the bridge.

View downstream from the bridge.

The bridge.

The day had turned sunny and very warm, walking the dark stone railroad bed didn’t help. Putting in after the 860m portage we ran into two white water canoes from the Ottawa Y Canoe Club, they had taken the easy way running the rapids. We all headed downstream and ended up leap-frogging each other throughout the day.

With some easy paddling ahead we were quickly to Radiant Lake where we stopped for a short break. Just before entering we searched out another spring and filled up with the cold water. We spoke with a couple of cottagers for a minute. He was fishing solo from his canoe while his wife paddled around in a kayak. The break offered an opportunity for a swim, four or five of us had a race out to a rock and back. The water was so refreshing after a morning of paddling in sunshine.

Walking the railroad bed.

Do what the sign tells you.

Small rapids on Petawawa River.

Reaching Radiant Lake.

Tree at rocky shoreline.

Radiant Lake view.

The afternoon was getting even hotter, if that was possible. I was trying to keep the sunscreen applied but splashing myself with water in an attempt to keep cool likely wasn’t helping. We crossed shallow Radiant Lake and headed under the bridge to get back on the Petawawa. We did run a couple of smaller rapids today, I believe Squirrel Rapids was one of them. Jim and I got in the spirit, hooting and hollering as we went. Markus and Jeffrey seemed a little more subdued while the Scarlett’s just took it in stride.

Logging road bridge.

Markus and Jeffrey going with the flow.

Petawawa River to Petawawa River.

We stopped at the river site that backs on to Mudcat Lake for a lunch of pitas, pepperettes and cheese about 1 PM. While resting we could see Kingfishers flying around and hear their chatter. We caught up with the white water canoers at Sawyer Rapids and were able to watch them run this stretch before lugging ourselves over the portage.

When we got to the Cascade/White Horse rapids we walked the railroad bed on the east side instead of taking the portage on the west side of the river. According to the Scarletts this was a better route, but it must have been 40 degrees walking along the slag. It hadn’t been that long since our lunch break, maybe 2 hours, but the heat of the day and the inferno along the railbed was reason enough for us to stop at the top end of Francis Lake for another swim. There were some nice sandy banks where you could dive into the deeper water of the river.

Our itinerary had us stopping in this area, but since we’d made great time with the wind at our back all day we decided to continue on and make camp on the Crow River. We ran Kildeer Rapids, again Jim and I having a blast. We may have to come back to this river with the proper canoe and have some serious fun in the rapids. We now had to turn off the Petawawa River and start working our way up the Crow River. Our days of easy downstream paddling were done.

The scenery had changed again, as it often does in Algonquin Park. The Crow River was a smaller more closed in river, we welcomed the chance to perhaps get some shade. The Y Canoe Club paddlers had traveled up to view the falls on the Crow River and we passed them as they returned, our last encounter with them.

Francis Lake to Kildeer Lake.

Markus and Jeffrey canoeing some small rapids.

About to get on the Crow River.

Blueberry Falls.

The 155m portage is around a nice little waterfall. After getting the camp setup for the night we went out for a dip to cool off again. The water had some speed and you had to watch yourself as you moved around, John found a nice little spot where you could sit and have the water cascade over your entire body. Markus was the first to stop and get out on a rock, I think he thought he was getting leaches again! He also discovered that if you killed a deerfly and threw it in the water a fish would come up and eat it. Luckily for us we had an unending supply of them to enjoy this sport for a while.

Blueberry Falls portage.

Top end of Blueberry Falls.

Hammock setup amidst the blueberry patch.

We had setup along the portage a bit in a cleared area on a slope. All except Jeffrey who had setup closer to the end of the portage, maybe the snoring of all the old guys was getting to him. Or maybe he wanted to be further away from the hillside of blueberries in case a bear came along.

Supper was prepared by Markus and was delicious, basmati rice and curry chickpea. To occupy the evening Markus and I tried our luck in the pool below the falls. I finally managed to catch a fish, then another one, and then another one. Both of us had some fun for a while before packing it in and heading to the fire for a hot chocolate. Mark S’s tally had us averaging 21 kilometers a day, hard to believe our trip was nearing the end.

I finally caught something too.

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