Algonquin Park: Camping Trip Logs: 011 - Meanest Link Part One

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Day 4

July 13, 2011 - Big East River to McCraney Lake

Our fourth day was going to be an interesting one we knew. We intended to bushwhack from Hood Lake to McCraney Lake, thus avoiding what would be a difficult walk up McCraney Creek. We had to make our own trail and take the canoes and packs across a 1400 meter portage that didn’t exist yet. We also knew from Leah at AO that the group of women who were the first to complete the full Meanest Link had tried this route before us and had not succeeded. They had lost their bearings and ended up bushwhacking their way back to the McCraney Creek route. But first things first, “Coffee’s ready!”

As compared to past days we knew this would be tough but not long, or was it long and tough? We took our time having the morning coffee and some delicious pancakes and bacon made by John. Breakfast was great but there was so much of it that everyone kept trying to pawn their fourth helpings on to someone else. Eventually we were packed up and started heading down the old road towards Hood Lake. This is an old lumber road (I presume) but had definite signs of having been used recently by ATV’s.

Markus packing up in the morning.

A slow start to the morning.

Finally getting started, portage to Hood Lake.

The road was overgrown but easy to follow, we crossed McCraney creek and the road grew in even more. At some point Jim took a tumble and got a small cut on his hand, good thing I was taking the canoe at this point. Hood Lake is a small lake and only took a minute to cross. In short order we were assembled on shore and ready to start our “walk in the woods”.

We shouldered our packs and sent Jeffrey out first with his GPS to guide us, John was off like a shot on his heels to pick out the best path to follow. We were all instructed to keep in mind that on the next trip we would be carrying canoes, so try to keep it straight and out of the thickest, bushiest parts. With Mark S. tying flagging tape every few steps we hoped it would be an easy matter to find our way back for the second load of gear. There was a pretty good rise in land for us to get over, which is fun to do when you are pushing your way through the bush with a fairly heavy pack on. There was lots of running commentary along the way: “Over here.”, “No, your other left!”, “Watch your step there.”, “Are we there yet?”

Start of Hood Lake to McCraney Lake portage.

It took us approximately 2.5 hours to reach the shore of McCraney Lake. Along the way we saw some nice forest stands, signs of old logging and, mysteriously, a couple strips of someone else's recent flagging. A couple of old lumber roads made our route a little easier for a short time. Walking along John managed to find some old iron remains of a lumber sled, twice.

Flagging our route through the bush.

John "the magnet" Scarlett.

What yonder shore...

We took a short break and headed back to get the canoes, taking only 35 minutes to retrace our flagged route. With one person carrying the canoe and their partner out front directing we started once again for McCraney Lake. It was remarkable how with only two trips over the “portage” you could already see a trail developing. Jim and I switched off the canoe half way through, I don’t know which was harder carrying the canoe or trying to direct the canoe carrier to the easiest path.

It was an experience creating a portage, re-creating would likely be more accurate. I’m sure someone has traveled this route before. We all ended up where we were supposed to be and with all the gear. Good job! I don’t know why he felt the need, but John walked into the muck at the shoreline and made some harbor improvements, moving logs and stumps out of the way so we could launch our canoes with ease. Handy guy to have around that John Scarlett.

Bushwhack done, ready to launch.

Feeling good from establishing a new 1.4 kilometer portage (that gains about 75 meters in elevation!) from Hood Lake to McCraney Lake we made a beeline to the camp site on the island at the southern end of the lake. There was a good breeze on the lake and some waves, the first time we had experienced that on this trip so far. It was just late afternoon and with the sense that the first stage of our journey was over we were all in an almost celebratory mood. Camp was set up, items put out to air/dry out and then most of us headed off individually to find a quiet spot to have a good bath.

I was feeling all cleaned and refreshed and thought it was time for cocktails before dinner. A fire was started and Fireball Juice was served all around while Mark S. prepared dinner – Ginger Mango Chicken with Rice. It was delicious, what made it for most was the extra toppings that were provided – homemade garlic powder, hot sauce, soy sauce, powdered cheddar etc. The original recipe is from Laurie Ann March’s book, A Fork In The Trail, I believe. But the Scarlett Brothers sure know how to put a kitchen kit together.

A familiar Algonquin Park camp site.

We now felt like we were in familiar territory, there was a real camp site with a fire ring and a lot of the guys had been to McCraney and/or this very camp site. With an almost full moon rising and the mosquitoes at a manageable level we were even able to sit around the roaring fire and have a night cap before heading off to bed a little later than on previous nights. Jim prepared himself an unusual hot chocolate, adding peanut butter to it? It was nice to be on an Algonquin Park lake and to have the calls of Loons to fall asleep to.

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